Same same but different

Off to kotor this morning. We met some saga holiday people stranded from the volcanic ash. They were really nice but not used to travelling on local transport. The drive along the coast was amazing as it always seems to be and we arrived in kotor early morning. It has a much bigger old town than Budva and is located along a fjord. There is a castle above the old town with views of the entire town as well as the fjord. The path though involves climbing up some steep hairpins and then through a hole in the wall of the castle. All the castles and ancient sights are really nice as you can walk anywhere you want. Had a blister on my foot by this point which was killing so had to burst it. The hostel was an appartment right in the middle of the city within 5 minutes walk of everywhere. The staff were really helpful with the bus timetables for dubrovnik so we went to bed to get up early.

We got up that morning and realised the reception was closed and they still had the ten euro deposit for our key. Fortunately the irish girl woke up and offered to hand in our keys so she gave us some croatian kuna she had left, we had no idea what the exchange rate was so just had to take it. After walking to the bus station they were no there is no morning bus to Dubrovnik which was great. Brian then admitted that several reviews of the hostel had said that the timetables were wrong. So instead had to catch a bus to Herceg Novi and then after an hour or so wait the bus onwards to Dubrovnik. I have always wanted to go to Dubrovnik so i was really looking forward to it. We got an apartment from some people waiting at the bus station and then as the weather was nice i walked into Dubrovnik. As i got to the top of the hill overlooking it i was gutted. Even in the off season it was full of package tourists so many it was difficult to walk on the main street. Instead i went for a walk in the side streets which was ok but essentially a scaled up version of kotor. As we had gone along the coast the old towns have been the same but just increasing in size. Went back to the apartment(half hour walk each way)and feet were killing. Brian had cooked pasta with this salami sausage as it was far too expensive to eat out. Went for another walk into the old town that night and it was completely dead. Too busy in the day and empty at night no atmosphere so we left. Even the irish bar which is guaranteed to be busy was empty. 3 euros for a beer probably had something to do with it. Next day i again walked to the old town as there was nothing else to do. The apartment did not have wifi and everybody has locked there private ones so even the internet was out.

Up early to go to split, brian went straight to mostar as he was fed up with the prices in croatia. I arrived in split managed luckily to find a hostel and went to the hajduk split match. The atmosphere was crazy even though the match itself was pretty rubbish. The number of flags and flares being lit made for an interesting experience. I took a few videos so will post those later.

Yesterday i caught the bus at 9:30 to Mostar in bosnia. The trip took 5 1/2 hours as the driver took the coastal route practically all the way back to Dubrovnik before turning inland. The route was scenic the first time from Dubrovnik but now it was irritating as we averaged 30mph on the windy roads. Met Bosnian guy on the bus who spoke english and we had a chat about the history. Bought me coffee at the border as we had to wait for ages. I should have learnt after the ohrid experience not to drink coffee before a bus journey. The next hour was spent looking for the next toilet. I have never liked coffee in england but the thick strong stuff here is really nice and cheap as well. Properly starting to get addicted to it. Got picked up from mostar bus station by the hostel which was rated number 1 hostel in europe. There were a few people there which made a change and was given food when i arrived. The hostel itself is in a crumbly old apartment block but the people are so friendly. Went for a walk around the old town and to the world famous mostar bridge. Its the least place i would expect to be filled with tacky souvenir shops but it was. Also it was the first time i had to think contiously about pick pockets since athens as it was crawling with gypsy kids. Randomly in the street these two belgian guys asked me for directions. They are driving a battered old van from belgium to mongolia through the central asian 'stan countries. Its similar to the mongol rally but they are not doing it for charity and are taking 8 months over it. Maybe thats the next trip sorted. I gave them directions to the hostel and then met up with brian for a few beers. The bar closed at 10:30 so went back to the hostel. He is off to sarajevo tomorrow so might see him there or belgrade before he heads to africa for the world cup. On a organised tour around the local area today with 10 others so that should be good.

Everythings changing

The weather here has been awful the last few days. I stayed in Ohrid for one more day hoping the weather would clear, the morning was fine but the clouds looked ominous so i decided not to climb the mountain. Instead i went for a walk along the shore of the lake for an hour or so before sitting in a cafe writing postcards while the heavens opened. There was only so much podcasts i could listen to so i went back to the hostel and watched football again while chatting to the manager. Its funny how history has ended up in the balkans. In albania they claim the founder and leader of the albanians was skanderberg, in macedonia there is exactly the same statue as in Tirana except of Alexander the great. Everyone including the greeks claims him for themselves. But macedonia is also unlikely to gain entry to the EU until it changes its name as the greeks claim that macedonia is a greek name they have the rights to. There are also several other countries including france and bulgaria that recognise the state but not the name. I left ohrid the next morning when it was sunny which was bound to happen due to murphys law as the manager pointed out. I had a coffee with him while i waited for the bus. I havent had a coffee in years and soon remembered why as i spent an awful journey on the bus to skopje dying for the toilet all the way. As i got to skopje the weather closed in which did nothing for the first impressions of the city. Skopje is grey tower blocks with no redeeming features. I found my way to the hostel which was rated 90% on hostelworld. It turned out to be a dump the computer was so slow, the breakfast was stale bread and there was mud in the shower. (as a side note i later found out they have been fudging there score somehow) I went to an irish bar for a drink but got accosted by gypsies so left. Dinner in the old turkish bazaar as the rain turned the streets into rivers. I had been assured there was an indian restaurant in skopje by several people so the evening was spent walking as well as getting a taxi in the rain looking for it. It closed last year gutted.

Left skopje as soon as possible the next day. Got to the bus station in time for the 11am bus got my ticket and stood around waiting. There were loads of people stood around it so i just waited with them as the buses are always late leaving. The bus left with me left standing there. What an idiot the woman at the ticket booth had a right stress over why i had missed it when i had so much time but eventually changed the ticket to 12:30. At 1pm the bus hasnt even arrived which is probably just deserts for missing the earlier bus. It eventually shows and they are not letting me on and several others i have no idea why. It turns out its because the ticket needs to be changed to say 1:30. Run back to kiosks but they are all busy as always happens. Murphys law in action again. Eventually get on the bus and cross the border after much delay to Kosovo. I had no idea what this would be like but it was like any other small mountainous country, a few UN convoys but not as many as you would expect. Got taxi to Guesthouse before going for a walk around Pristina which was really cool place not like i had expected. There was hardly any evidence of bombing or the fighting that took place. It was also really cheap Whatton i found your perfect cafe three large pieces of chocolate pudding for 1 euro. Found an indian restaurant and went there for dinner. It was full of english suprisingly. Halfway through my meal which was really great mainly as a change, some suited and miked up body guards come in and take up positions around the restaurant before what i presume was an ambassador came in. Walked back to guesthouse where i met Brian a canadian that had been put in my room. Turns out he has pretty much the same route so we have been travelling together since. We took a day trip to Prizren in the south of the country then a ten hour bus journey yesterday to Budva in montenegro which is right on the coast. The trip was so long as we had several stops along the way for a few hours. The scenery was amazing as we came along a gorge that covers most of the country but the heavy rain and fog along the way made the going exceptionally slow. Had a few litres of beer from the shop to celebrate my birthday then shattered went to bed.

The weather picked up slightly today so walked along the coast to an island which was pretty nice but in the offseason it is so quiet. Nice to be by the sea again after a few weeks in the mountains. Out tonight to the Irish bar which is open to have a few and see the champions league. Off to Kotor tomorrow.

Berat to Ohrid

I left Tirana on monday morning after staying around for the Tirana vs. Shkoder game sunday. It ok very similar to conference level i guess but was decided by a last minute penalty awarded to Vlanzia Shkoder. It was at this point i realised i had been sitting in the away end all game cheering for Tirana lol. Monday morning i got the bus to Berat with two english girls i met in Tirana. I had attempted to get a furgon (local mini bus) which leaves when it is full. Fortunately i saw the bus passing before i sat in the furgon for too long and hailed it down. Got to berat which is absolutely beautiful. It does not seem to be blighted by the rubbish problem everywhere else. There is a castle on the hill which is the oldest inhabited citadel in europe probably the world. To get up there was a 15 minute hike up a very steep cobbled street. Brief look around the old town before a kebab for dinner. The hostel was run by a Jordie who had bought the house two years ago and was in the process if doing it up fully. There was another english couple who were working there while they try and get to New Zealand with no flights as well as a chef from Texas who had given up trying to hitch hike and settled for a few months. Next day took Scott (the owners advice) and took a bus to a local town to try and hike to the waterfalls. It had rained in the night so things were a bit muddy but not too bad. I found the river and started following the it to where the falls are. I had to several times cross on stepping stones, tree branch bridges as well as mud slides which wasn't ideal in jeans. In the end i didn't make it as the river was too high and the path was getting ridiculous. I headed back slightly quicker than would have been liked as i was chased by a dog. Found a cafe to eat the local lamb which was amazing, the restaurant was so quiet the waiter started bringing me all sorts to try while i waited for the bus. We had his home made gin which was unbelievably strong as well as a home made honey, apple and walnut desert. We tried to talk but ended up with just conversing in single words and hand gestures. Scott had said that when you try and understand albania you have to first consider that unlike the west where head rules the heart it is the other way round. This gives rise to the kanun or ancient code for albanians where a guest is treated like a god but inter family rivalries are often deadly. Everybody here treats you with such kindness, nobody tries to scam and they are proud that someone has taken the time to come and see their country. Had a dvd night last night as the weather was so atrocious watched 'old boy' which was pretty good for a foreign film. One for you to review waller if you havent already

Today wednesday i left berat on the bus at five in the morning to pogradec a town on the Macedonian border. I then walked across the border although i didn't get an entry stamp to Macedonia. Bus to ohrid a town on the lake which is stunning, there are so many amazing views to be had despite the weather. The guy running the place has to be the most helpful ever, possibly as I'm the only guest in a 40 bed hostel. Went out around the town this afternoon looking like a tramp as i only have two clean things left. Walked around the old town to the ancient theatre and a few churches, where a dog was walking along and then lunged for my leg. The leg (of the trousers) got shredded but fortunately they are baggy and it didn't get my actual leg. Absolutely paranoid about dogs now after the last two days so a trip to Bucharest is looking more doubt full.

On a brighter note the weather has picked up and hopefully it will hold out so i can go and climb the local mountain to a place where you can see both lakes in one go. We will see

Time to go

Friday night i went out with the british couple to the same restaurant. Had roast chicken again for dinner. Spent the evening discussing the election and jonathan creek. It seems everybody has the same favourite episode the one with the guy bricked up in the cellar.

Had a lie in and then went for a coffee with francesca and filippo as they were leaving. Next up the albanian history museum which was long and only bits were in english. It was the same as all national history museums where the country was communist, no other choice had to beet the facists etc. Fairly interesting about skanderberg who turns out to be alexander the great. I think most of the yugoslav problems date back to this time. Should have come here before i wrote my dissertation. Afternoon i spent loading photos onto photobucket which took 1 1/2 hours to do 60 so stopped there. Decided to stay about for the football tomorrow Dinamo Tirana vs. Shkodra. Went out to watch Villa match which was gutting, then dinner again roast chicken. I keep ordering different things but everything is out of stock. Watched el classico then went to bed.

Looking forward to going to Berat tomorrow another mountain village which should be a bit quieter. Tirana is nice but there is nothing left to do, its a bit like walking in milan fashion show. Everybody wears prada, versaci, ray ban its crazy probably the most stylish place i have ever been. No chavs just fashionistas. Crossing the road is getting a bit stressful as well, it is similar to vietnam but with cars. Just walk out and they drive around you!! To get anywhere from the hostel i have to cross the main avenue which is four lanes wide.

Mountain of Rubbish

Last night i went out for dinner at the chicken place i mentioned yesterday. Whole roast chicken, meatballs (qofta), rice and large beer for 4 pounds which was really good. Went to watch the football at a bar in an area called Bloku which is where the party members used to live before the end of communism. The nice villas and town houses are now bars and clubs. Watched the football in a bar with a bouncer. Nobody in there paid for drinks for the entire time as they all seemed to know the owner. Got a bit lost on the way back and ended up taking over 40 mins to get home.

Got up early and met an english couple who had just arrived. They had rented a car and were driving around which is just crazy. Caught the bus to Dajti mountain which is a national park on the edge of Tirana. Took a cable car up to the top of the mountain where there is a new hotel Belvedere and a rotating restaurant. This was the only nice bit as the rest of the park was either closed for military purposes or covered in rubbish. Had planned to walk back down but couldn't find the path. Albanias rubbish situation hadn't really bothered me that much up to now but the whole mountain was covered in it and stray dogs. The photos i will try and put up tomorrow may make you think it is some kind of untouched paradise but its dirty as hell.

Back to tirana and walked up the main street to the university past the house of Hoxha the old communist leader. Had a beer in a cafe and then walked around the main park which is massive. Got a bit lost and it took over an hour to get out when i eventually found my way. Feet are killing so taking a day off tomorrow to sleep.

Moving on

I left it last time in Sarande. I ate in for the first time in a week as the italian and polish guys i met cooked dinner. There were six of us staying in the hostel which is more in one go than the owner had seen in total over the previous four months. The owner was a girl from ireland and then the person who runs it was from somewhere in iowa how random is that. Iowa to southern albania.

Not alot in Sarande just hotels and construction sites, as albanians cant leave the country without great difficulty this is where they all come for holidays. In summer i cant imagine a worse place, the rubbish must just pile up. On wednesday morning i went to Butrint an archealogical site with Philipo and Francesca a german girl we met on the bus. The trip is 20km to the site but took over an hour as again the road is in horrendous condition with a sheer drop into the sea. Some of the passing manouvers were scary. Butrint was great really well preserved roman theatre, villas etc in a beautiful location. After that we had the hour back to the bus station and then a possible six hour drive for 80 miles up the coast to Vlore. Fortunately the roads are slightly better than when the guide was written and it only took four hours. The coast road was spectacular and went over a 1600m mountain pass into the clouds, i think it must be the most scenic bus ride i have ever been on.

Vlore is a dump and the road outside the hotel had been dug up over a year ago and left so the albanians had turned it into a shanty town / rubbish tip. Alot of the hotels are only partly finished as the money has run out and it looks a mess. Pizza for dinner then watched happily as Man Utd. crashed out of europe. This morning thursday i went for a look around Vlore which is just a city with nothing to see and left on a furgon to Tirana. The driver insisted on overtaking whether anything was coming in the opposite direction or not. Got to the hostel and have been for a brief look around. Lovely city, small but lively. They painted all the communist era tower blocks to liven the place up and it worked. Oranges and cheese for lunch both of which are so good here. The vegetables actually taste of something other than water. Theres a roast chicken on a spit place round the corner which i can smell from my room so off to get some dinner.

Climbing a mountain tomorrow and looking forward to the football saturday

Albania Calling

Ok so despite my promises it has been a week with no updates. I flew to athens last wednesday walked around in the 25 degree heat with a heavy bag trying to find the hostel whose location i had comitted to memory rather than taking a map. The hostel was nice with a sports bar so watched arsenal barcelona with some new zealanders. Two american girls in my room Trysha and Meg who were cool. Went drinking with them on the second night. Thursday went to the acropolis and parthanon and a walk around countless ancient sites of athens. Its ok but theres too much after a few hours. So on friday i went to eigan an island off the coast of athens with jason and briant two americans i met at the karaoke thursday night. Island was nice, took a taxi to the summit with a view over the athens and other islands. Out again at sports bar that night, then up early to see delphi the site of the oracle. The ruins were average but the location was the best ever, typical greece. So its then sunday and easter and the whole of greece shuts down so im thinking are buses on as i am planning to go to albania today. So up at five, got the metro to some really sketchy suberb in the dark. Stray dogs everywhere bit dicey so got a cab to bus station. Six hours later in ioannina, then another 1 1/2 to the albanian border. I was the only one there which was gutting as i was hoping for a shared cab or bus. So walk 1/2 km across the neutral zone to albania where i get a new stamp in my passport and my 24th country. Taxi to Gjirokostra which is a mountain town. After greece i could not help smiling as this is what i pictured my travels to be like. If you imagine communist eastern europe that is what albania is. So i spent two nights in gjirokostra where i met a spanish journalist Luis doing a documentary on albanias blood feuds which was interesting and then the second day i met mariuz (polish) and philipo (italian) who i travelled to saranda with today. On the furgons (minbuses) they give out sick bags as the roads are so bad just like a rollercoaster very tight and steep roads with massive potholes. Two kids in the back kept throwing up for the entire hour. The smell as you can imagine was bad. Anyway today im staying at the hairy lemon hostel and we are about to cook dinner, so i will leave it here for now. Off to butrint (ruins) and vlore tomorrow so may not have access to the internet for a while. Overall having a really good time hope to see some of you out here at some stage.